CASE STUDY: LILITH NYC

 

PHASE 01 : DISCOVER

LISTENING + EMPATHY → This is the most important part of our discovery process. Through our experience, we have learned that without listening and empathy there is no way unique and original work can be done. Through stories and discussion, we will glean the important nuances and values that make you stand out from the rest.


FOR LILITH NYC THIS CAME TO LIFE IN THESE WAYS

Lilith NYC founder, Sarah Sukumaran, set out to design footwear for womxn. After a childhood of sneaker obsession, and a background working at Nike, Sukumaran yearned for versatile and durable sneakers that celebrated womxn’s confidence and beauty in the same way men’s sneakers do. We were asked to design the branding, messaging and products surrounding her footwear. The brand is rooted in Sukumaran’s ties to Elmhurst, Queens and Sri Lanka, and the regions’ respective histories and cultures. A collective message in support and representation of womxn is woven-throughout. Lilith NYC is about searching, questioning authority, and never settling. In ourselves we trust.

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Influential stylists and sneaker collaborators, like Aleali May have charted new paths for womxn, but many times the brands apply a “pink it and shrink it” mentality. Mens toolings made pink instead of creating a profile that accommodates the unique needs of womxn in fit and style.

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Lilith NYC intends to pick-up the torch of females in footwear by creating classic styles, in fashion forward palettes that would upend the existing dynamic of womxn trying to fit into the mens sneaker world — what if men were waiting in line for womxn’s shoes?

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Sukumaran’s upbringing in Elmhurst, Queens is the foundation of the brand. The grit of the city and the people that give it soul are at the core of storytelling. Ephemera of delis, pizzerias, subways and streets are incorporated in our work. Her early love of sneakers is evident in her style choices!


 

The grit of the city set against the lush of the jungle brought us to explore the Tropical Modernism movement in architecture that is often solely credited to Geoffrey Bawa. In the spirit of Lilith’s history, Minnette de Silva was a Sri Lankan architect who pioneered Tropical Modernism by fusing European technologies and trends with regional landscapes and traditional craftsmanship and her contribution has often been overlooked. Sukumaran is the daughter of Tamil refugees and is inspired by the lushness of island life, and the way de Silva designed and constructed remarkable spaces in a male-dominated industry. The theme of the misrepresentation of womxn is threaded through the Lilith brand DNA.


Kali, the Hindu Goddess, is the embodiment of Shakti, divine feminine energy. Her femininity isn’t performative and her appearance rejects the constraints of culture. She is wilderness itself, representing nature at its rawest and most untamed. She is the source of life and death. Beauty and terror. Nurture and destruction.

Saint Sarah is the patron saint of the Romani people. Each year, they would take her on their shoulders as part of the pilgrimage to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. In India, she is known as Sara La Kali, connecting her with the Hindu Goddess. Her likeness shows up in many cultures and was an inspiration for Lilith NYC.

Lilith is a misunderstood character in mythology and folklore, consistently labeled a temptress or evil spirit. By some accounts, she was actually the first wife of Adam (before Eve), created equally, then written out of history by male scholars because she chose not to be submissive to man. She is often represented as a snake in the Garden of Eden.

 

TREND, CONTEXTUAL + COMPETITIVE RESEARCH → Having a strong understanding of the history, trends, context and competition around the world will solidify a direction that will help you stand out in a crowded market while not deviating from your core values and ethics that are tied to why you started this business in the first place. It’s this research that arms us with all the information needed to make smart decisions and develop effective strategies.

FOR LILITH NYC THIS CAME TO LIFE IN THESE WAYS

There is a very one-dimensional view of womxn in sneaker culture. The industry continues to overlook womxn through campaign ads, high heat sneaker drops, and size runs. Men have always been able to flex in the sneaker space, why can’t womxn too?

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The low-rise housing that occupies much of Queens exhibits themes of identity, adaptation and differentiation through their assemblage-like way of developing over time. The structures reflect the incredible diversity of the borough’s population, often regarded as the most ethnically and linguistically diverse place in the world. Architect Rafael Herrin-Ferri documents the buildings in his photography series called All the Queens Houses.

Place, as a story, is a very important aspect of Lilith NYC. The tension of Queens and Sri Lanka balances forces of city and nature. We were interested in merging streetwear of the concrete jungle with a tropical, global perspective. Lush + grit.


As part of our contextual research to thread the universal narrative of the female spirit, we explored how serpent serpent symbolism shows up in ancient cultures and traditions all over the world, representing a variety of concepts, ranging from good to evil, death to rebirth.

Additionally, the symmetry and proportionality of Naga iconography, exhibited in sculptures, reliefs, and architectural ornamentation, was also a reference point in the embracing of the totality of self, the merging of the male and female counterparts and the powers associated with that integration.

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The idea of embracing totality is something we explored conceptually, but it also shows up in aesthetics and gender representation. Lilith NYC’s footwear and fashion are designed for womxn, desired by everyone. The brand promotes womxn to explore and express style, gender, and sexuality across a spectrum.

This is a trend we see becoming a key conversation in fashion brands, especially those who are communicating with GenZ. A 2020 Gallup poll shows that 1 in 6 Gen Zer’s identify as LGBTQ and this number continues to climb.

We researched fashion and streetwear brands dedicated to both feminine and masculine outlooks, as well as brands that advance gender neutrality.

 

PHASE 02 : POSITION

INTENTIONAL APPLICATIONWe sweat the details and application of the research and discovery. Every design and communication decision is an opportunity to represent your brand values. That opens the door for your brand to make a serious impact on your business. This intention will be the key in making your business stand out and succeed on your terms.

FOR LILITH NYC THIS MEANT

The brand stands at the intersection of fashion, wellness and tech. It also takes on historical research and a global context. The Lilith NYC brand ecosystem pairs the wordmark with a collection of artifacts, illustrations, patterns and collages. We balanced the past and present, pairing centuries-old sculptures and ornamentation from around the world with current-day photographs of Queens, New York. Tropical plants mix with elements of the street to highlight a balance of lush and grit. The branding shows up in printed products, packaging, clothing, and the website.


While we were developing this brand, racial injustice, financial inequality and political polarization were on the rise. We developed company values like "use your clout for good" and taglines like "in ourselves we trust" and "shoes on, eyes open" to connect the brand to this critical moment, inspire individual action and place it on the right side of history.

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PHASE 03 : EXECUTE

EMERGENT EXECUTIONS → Having a strong creative process brings structure and results. This discipline allows for us to know when to break and explore directions that emerge from the process. Being open to finding and discovering new things allows us to have a process that builds on itself to make something distinctive that clearly communicates your values, story and service.

FOR LILITH NYC THIS CAME TO LIFE IN THESE WAYS

Each element of the Lilith NYC brand holds up as an isolated detail, and as a piece of a larger, holistic ecosystem. Our research into religion, mythology, cultural context, streetwear, and fashion laid the groundwork for messaging, branding, collateral, packaging and website design.

The wordmark uses timeless letter forms and circular geometry as a nod to the brand’s feminine roots. The curvature speaks to a full moon, a female form, and traditional Tamil letter geometry. A geographical identifier nesting under the wordmark can change to activate different markets, planning for the brand’s global executions.

 
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ART DIRECTION + CASTING CONSIDERATIONS

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Supporting LGBTQ and expanding the cultural representation within in the womxn sneaker space was an important consideration in casting, styling and art direction conversations.


TEXTILE + CLOTHING DESIGN

Artifacts, modern and ancient, were woven into patterns used in collateral and textile design. Sukumaran’s South Asian heritage inspired our inclusion of culturally-considered folklore. Goddesses, deities, serpents and artifacts tell stories of power and strength and intertwine with modern-day artifacts like storefronts, street signs and google maps.

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Streetwear styling and fashion tend to center around casual separates and tomboy vibes. With Lilith NYC we wanted to include but expand beyond traditional sweatsuits to include flowing dresses, neoprene skirts and separates, as well as bodysuits and sports gear.


DIGITAL TOUCHPOINTS

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Integrated story-telling and aesthetics were considered on digital platforms.


An animated video grounds the website in the brand storytelling taking place at other digital touch points.